..then it would look something like Laos. Friendly people, stunning landscape, clement weather, relaxed attitudes, Asia's best beer (
Beerlao) everywhere (98% market share!), good bread, good coffee, great local food, plenty of decent western food if you feel like it, quiet roads, beautiful temples, amazing waterfalls tumbling through the trees, attractive local handicrafts, mostly cheap as chips (although some tourist businesses in
Luangprabang are
starting to hike their prices - and why shouldn't they?)...
Our first taste of it was the bus from
Vietnam. We got crammed in the back with lots of the luggage and a young teacher from Ipswich, Dan. He got the short straw as the box behind his head k
ept falling on him when we went over the bumps. However, when we arrived in sleepy S
avannakhet (now proud owner of lots of bits of tourist infrastructure I didn't see 7 years ago,
like ATMs, supermarkets stocking
everything from P
ringles to Tim Tams to fisherman's friends, and
Internet cafes) and settled down with our first B
eerlao, the
journey didn't seem too bad.
Another long
bus ride the
next day took us to Vientiane where we met Meredith, who'd flown out from Melbourne to
travel with us for the
next few weeks. On the way in we
passed the brand new national stadium built top host the South-east
Asian games, which by all
accounts went off very well. Probably in preparation for this, the capital has had a
facelift since I was last here, and now has a certain quiet charm about it - certainly one of the least capital-city like capitals I've been to. We visited the main tourist landmarks,
including Patuxia, the
Lao Arc
de Triomphe made from
concrete donated by the US to build a new runway for the airport. Even the
inscription on it
says " it doesn't look so good when you get close up"!
Next up was the backpackers'
paradise (or
backpackers' cliche?) of Vang
Vieng. Cheap bungalows, cheap food and drinks 80p for a
bucket of unidentified spirits and Coke (or Seven-up), bars showing
comedy shows like
Friends or Family guy on a loop, "happy" milkshakes and pizzas (although drugs are very illegal in Laos), but and the famous Vang
Vieng tubing experience. You get run up
in a pick-up with a big inner tube to a point 8k or so up the river. The river up here is lined with bars on either side,
tempting you in with drinks deals, deafening pop music and activities like
waterslides, rope swings or mud volleyball. Y
ou float downstream sitting in your tube, and
pull in at whichever takes your fancy. If you're in danger of floating past, a
couple of young lads throwout a plastic bottle on
a rope to you and haul you in. When Meredith got
caught in the wrong current and headed off to the far side of
the river, one even swam across to make sure she made it to his bar. Since most of
the bars are
concentrated near the start, typically you end up paddling furiously at the end to get back before dark.
IF Vang
Vieng is a backpacker's dream, then
Luangprabang is a
flashpacker's dream. And that's what Adrienne and I are,
these days. still happy with a bit of an adventure and an
experience that's a bit rough at the edges, but
enjoying some
creature comforts, too. We stayed in
a lovely guesthouse overlooking
the river, and with the most hi-tech shower in the whole of
Laos. We had massages, lovely
icecream, fantastic iced coffees and fresh juices, took
a boat trip up the
Mekong to a couple
of ca
ves, where local people put little Buddha statues as an offering; went to see a bear sanctuary next to a
waterfall running through the trees into
turquoise natural swimming pools; visited the old royal
palace and temples with their gold leaf and stained glass
mosaics glittering beautifully in the sun, and then relaxed drinking cocktails by the river as the sun went down.
We also went
further afield and spent a few nights in the quiet villages of
Nong Khiaw and
Muang Ngoi -
the latter only accessible by boat from the former, and only having a few hours of
electricity a day. WE did very little up here - much to the chagrin of the
local lad who was trying to
interest us in a fishing-and-BBQ trip. We found out later that when we didn't bite, he had to spend
the day working in the rice fields - no wonder he was so keen! These rustic
places were a reminder that the development we saw in the towns, driven by industry and tourism, had yet to percolate very far into the countryside.
Initially we planned to carry on taking
buses and boats north and west to the Thai border and then head into the golden triangle of opium-growing infamy. But then we realised we
would be spending most of the time on bumpy roads just for the sake of continuing overland. So we booked a flight from L
uangprabang, and an hour later we were in
Chiang Mai.